Note: I learned something about blogging. You can't walk away from an unfinished post to go get something to eat or you might then get sleepy and go to bed and then be running late the next day for your vacation of backpacking-kayaking-camping- and not see a computer for a week. But, I'm back, and at a keyboard. So...
When last we left off Shellee, Rich and I were starting the climb to the peak of San Jacinto. We'd left home in a rush. I was wearing shorts and a strappy tank. Supply-wise we had some water, Shellee's never-used space blanket, and a few walnuts. Experienced hikers call these kinds of people idiots.
Getting off the tram cars you walk down a steep cement path that leads you into the San Jacinto Wilderness at 8,400 elevation. We were on our way to the 10,800 foot peak. It's 11 miles round-trip. The sidewalk was covered with dirt and rocks, obvious remnants of a storm from the night before. It was gray out and strangely humid.
"I don't care if it rains," says Shellee.
"Bring it on," she says, using a phrase she detests. "I would actually welcome being wet."
This is what Palm Springs summers do to a person. Rich, equally deranged by too many days of 112 plus, was quite in agreement with her.
I, on the other hand ,was reviewing all the reading I've been doing lately about lightening strikes, and body temperatures and other such wilderness hazards.
I do not wish to give you false foreshadowing. So, I'll tell you right now, by some fluke it did not storm on us.
But, the point is, that it sure as heck looked like it was going to, so I did not protest the 100-yard dash pace that we quickly set. Nothing like running straight up a granite cliff. But I figured it was important for us to get to the top and quickly back down before being caught in the thunderstorm the other two were ready to welcome.
We stormed past the Japanese tourists in their spanking new hiking clothes. Two small women were hunched over like the letter c carrying huge packs on their backs. I briefly noted, while stomping - no time to stop and contemplate them -that they looked mighty uncomfortable. Miserable in fact. And they were only going a hop and skip to Long Valley. I was about to traverse the Sierra with a backpack.
We ran into a couple coming down from the top and I stopped to ask them about the previous night's storm. They said there had been lightening strikes and ground-shaking thunder. The rangers had got everyone down off the peak and piled them all into the small shelter. Many people had just been wearing cotton shorts and tank tops, they mentioned without making it seem like a direct commentary on our clothing, and they had all huddled in there shivering for hours. We wished them a good day and continued our trek to that same peak in our cotton clothes.
The scenery was stark. Yes, the trees were towering. But this is a mountain that raises straight from the desert floor. It's trees are whipped with furious winds and storms and lately bark beetles. So their branches are all stubby and twisted like their suffering from some terrible neurological disorder. There are almost as many tall ghostly white trees laying on the ground as reaching the sky.
"The cycle of life," says Shellee,
"A tree cemetery ," I say.
Finally we are through the evil woods and moving into bushy hedges and we come out on the side of the mountain where there would indeed be breathtaking vistas if I could look about, but we're moving fast and I have to watch where I'm putting my feet. So for over an hour while coming around the side of a 10,800 foot peak what I see is about two feet of dirt like a horse with blinders. Every once in a while, I stop to breathe and look but always within seconds is the sound of other hikers coming up behind me. It's a very crowded trail.
Also, there is Shellee ahead of me. We are the dearest and most competitive of friends. We first met years ago when an editor at a paper I'd just started working at told me I was his next best writer to Shellee Nunley. I went out of that office annoyed, thinking, "Ok, so just who is this Shellee chic?" I went to find out. We started talking and we've been seeing who can run faster, jump highest and write the better transition ever since. We knocked it off for a little while, a few years back, after we almost drowned our friend Larry. (We got in a kayak race, when we were just supposed to be toodling Larry, who swims in the manner of a wind-up toy - lots of flapping about , no forward motion - around a bay. Someone went faster and then someone else went a little faster and next thing you know we were racing off into the ocean until I looked back and saw Lar's capsized boat. His hat floating ominously on the water. It is an infamous day he has lived to make sure we never forget.
However, on San Jacinto, Larry was not with us as reminder of the evils of competition, and the thought of Shellee making it up that mountain before me was not to be tolerated .(Rich I don't compete with. He's too much bigger than me.) But about a mile from the top, for the first time in my adult life I just didn't care if Shellee got there without me. I was at this point just so disgusted with the whole trudge trudge trudge, puff, puff, puff thing.
"You just go right on ahead and trot up that mountain Missy, " I thought and slowed my gate. And caught my breath immediately. At which point I had a terrible thought.
What if I am in shape and this is just how exertion feels? I mean what if this is as good as it gets? It's not like I was collapsing or anything. I just didn't like breathing heavy and having my muscles strain. So I trudge and puff and strain and occasionally glance at dead trees and get to the little shack a good five minutes after my friends. I am feeling very cross. But then I remember there's a peak sign-in book in that shack. Oh-ho-ho.. There's a reason I'm a writer. And a few yards in front of me is paper and a pen.
I go in there and flip through all the "Awesome Views! Our second trip to the top!Margarite and Hans" and innumerable "We made it's" with little annoying smiley faces, and add my own commentary:
"Ok all you John Muir types. What exactly is so wonderful about some clumps of granite and a few trees with cerebral palsy? Look out. Look down below at that green in the distance. Down there are restaurants and mister systems and margaritas and people conversing instead of puffing in hermithood . .." I go on for a bit, amusing my cranky soul greatly, and sign it "Not John Muir's Type."
I come out of the shack with a smile on my face, to the disappointment of Shellee and Rich who had plotted to launch into an angelic rendition of Valerie Valerah in counterpoint to my scowl.
They sang anyway. I had to laugh. They sounded like the Whos in Whoville. I thought everything was going to be ok. But then I remembered. There's this thing that apparently all human beings have except me, where it is not ok to sit and enjoy a 357 degree view. Oh no, you have to precariously crawl over boulders up to the tip tip top, risking your life so you can have a 360-degree view and take a snapshot with the peak sign.
So we do. And at one point I slip, and end up with one foot on one boulder and the other foot on another with about a 15 foot drop between them. And my vertigo which makes me feel like I'm going to tumble 10,800 feet setting in. There's a church group up there with about 14 members of all shapes and sizes cheerily leaping from rock to rock, as I stand heart-thumpingly paralyzed.
Finally, we head down. And for some reason I keep stumbling and kicking rocks. Probably because I am busy talking, theorizing that maybe I'm just descended from a line of people who preferred the seashore. That perhaps I'm genetically disinclined to mountains. I am amusing myself. But I complain about repeatedly almost breaking my toes, and ask Rich and Shellee to watch me and see if I'm walking wrong or something. But Rich says, "You know what's causing you to trip? And makes his hand do that universal sign for gabbing too much. Where you make your fingers and thumb come together quick like a mouth running on.
Now I'm mad, because apparently, it's not enough to just trudge along looking at two feet of dirt. Oh no, one must also do it in silence. He thinks it's funny that I'm peeved and starts singing Valerie Valerah, which is either an 18th century hiking song or something an MGM musician wrote for a Heidi movie. I hang back. Only to be accosted by the church group behind me singing church songs. I cross the side of the mountain silently sandwiched between Jesus tunes and Whoville. Argh.
When we get to the winding part of the trail I pass everyone. I've always liked to run on the parts they tell you not to run on. So I'm hopping from rock to rock, feeling all fleet, and I figure "Ha Ha!. I've finally left them in the dust and if I want to stop and look around and actually enjoy myself I can. " I'm by a meadow and it's almost dusk. So I walk to the edge,crouch down and quietly wait to see what shows up for a dinner of grass. Shellee and Rich are on my heels not three minutes later. I don't see a thing. So I get up and start moving just as Shellee says "Oh did you see that deer?"
As far as I know it was the only creature any of us saw all day. We didn't even see a squirrel. I have more wildlife in my urban backyard. With every step on San Jacinto I am dreading the JMT more and more. Thinking how this one day's misery will be multiplied times eight on my trip. At one point I look so miserable Rich hugs me and says "Don't be scared. You'll be fine." An then I am once again secretly annoyed at him, for 1. talking to me like I'm a 3-year-old and 2. being right, because now I am scared.
Finally, we are down the mountain. When Shelle crows that we made it to the peak in 4 hours I just want to hit her. And me. That's not even admirable. That's just insane.
But then we go to the Blue Coyote, the wonderful PS restaurant know for it's Wild Coyote margaritas. They are dangerous. And by my second one I have moved on to Big Drunken Worries. It is hitting me that I must be souless. I climbed to a peak. I looked out. I felt nothing. I only thought the trees were looking pretty peaked. While others had gloried and basked in grandeur and splendor I had wondered what in the hell we were thinking. I had spent the day with two of my oldest, dearest friends and wished I could wrap tape around their valerie-valerahing lips. Not a drip of spirituality to me, I moaned.
"Oh no Deed, You're spiritual," says Shellee, ever faithful.
"Yes, yes, " says Rich valiantly. "You are."
I'm not," I protest. "I am unmoved by grandeur and beauty (although it sounded more like Imaun ma-moo be granzhur and beateee") Name one thing I get spiritually moved over."
There is silence.
Then Shellee, who has already a couple of times that evening declared herself "drunkasaskunk" says "Flowers!"
I am filled with glee and agreement.
"You're right! I love flowers (or I luuuv Fwowers!)" I say, greatly relieved to have found a form of redemption.
So, after training for weeks, I hit the proving ground and find the only thing I have going for me going into the JMT is ...
I love flowers.